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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.